Resources for some common Simonini paramotor engines
2011 Mar 31 Thanks to Dan Clarke for
information on correcting some Simonini issues and general information.
2007 Oct 2 Thanks to Adam Bell for the
genesis and initial information on this page. This information is being
integrated with the general troubleshooting.
Mini 202 Issues & Info |
Ignition / Charging
Chapter 12 article on
Adam Bell shares some of his experiences with the Fly Simonini motors and
trouble shooting problems.
#1 most common problem, easily fixed.
Electric start isn't cranking authoritatively, most pilots assume their
battery is going and re-charge it often or the night before a planned
flight. The problem isn't usually the battery, it's the carbon buildup
plugging the decompression port that allows pressure to flow from the inside
of the cylinder to the exhaust. When pressure from inside the cylinder
cannot pass through to the exhaust system, turning the propeller becomes a
bit harder and your battery will not appreciate this over time.
Make sure master/ignition
switch is OFF.
Remove spark plug wire.
Loosen the cylinder head
bolts in an opposite, diagonal fashion, don't take them completely off
Secure the motor in
position with a tie strap or piece of rope etc so that when the top motor
mount bolts are removed, the motor remains in position and does not fall
rearward. If this step is omitted, unnecessary stress will be placed on
the lower motor mounts and other components. Run the strap from the top of
the frame on the left of the motor as viewed from rear, (not cage) around
the cylinder (below the head) and to the frame on the right side of the
motor. Make sure it is snug enough to keep the motor where it is once the
top mount bolts are removed.
Remove the two top motor
mount bolts from the front of the frame with the allen wrench that came
with your maintenance tool set. If you don't have it, use a metric
wrench that fits the bolt. It's best if the allen wrench is a bit long,
this gives you better leverage and makes it much easier to get to the
bolts. These must be removed first in order to get the cylinder head off
Loosen the 4 cylinder head
nuts and Remove the cylinder head.
Locate the decompression
port on the left side of the cylinder wall about an inch or two down. Make
sure your piston is not all the way down, keep it just a bit below the
decompression port so that debris does not enter into the motor via the
cylinder. Use a small drill bit and electric drill to ream out the carbon
build up in the decompression port. Make sure the drill bit is just
smaller than the decompression port hole. The hole goes diagonally from
the cylinder wall into the exhaust port. Drill at a low RPM and slowly as
you feel for the path of the decompression port hole. Once you've got it,
run the drill bit back and forth a few times to ensure a nice, clean port
Now is a good time to clean
up any carbon deposits or build up on the top of the piston and cylinder
head. Remove the spark plug, clean and gap. Use some steel wool or lightly
sand with 150 - 200 grit sand paper, taking care not to really scratch
Put it all back together
and take care in ensuring the cylinder head is fit properly down on the
cylinder with no gaps between the head and cylinder. Tighten all nuts and
bolts to specs, insert the spark plug and tighten, put the spark plug wire
back on, remove the securing strap and go over everything to ensure all
nuts and bolts are secure.
Your motor should start
like it is brand new! This procedure should be repeated about every 25 -
35 hours of run time to ensure reliable performance of your Simonini
Sudden Power Loss or "Blip"
Pilot is flying around happily and is startled by a sudden loss in power
for an instant, a kind of burble that may occur once or a few times during a
flight with power at full or just shy. It really seems like an ignition type
problem at first or a loose wire vibrating on a connector etc.
If you have the old style fuel primer bulb, the check valve components
inside may be loose fitting, cracked or may have fallen out into the bulb.
Any of these scenarios can cause intermittent power problems or a complete
loss of power during flight. Take your primer bulb off and inspect for loose
or damaged valve components.
The fix can be one of many:
Buy a new style primer bulb that is standard
on Fly Products units 2006 and newer.
Find another type of primer bulb that can be
used with auto or aviation fuel and can handle the intended mission.
See if you can get parts to fix the damaged
valve components in the bulb.